Jayne Pierson: celebrity high-end fashion design from Carmarthenshire

For most, the airline and fashion industries might not sound like natural bedfellows, but perhaps Amelia Earthart would have something to say about that. Though remembered for her aeronautical achievements, including becoming the first female flight crew member to cross the Atlantic when she touched down in West Wales in 1928, Earthart also had her own forward-thinking fashion label for active women (using the funds to finance her flying).

In 2008, the people of the Welsh county of Carmarthenshire once again witnessed the world’s of aviation and fashion come together, when Jayne Pierson opened her fashion studio in one of the terminal buildings of tiny Pembrey Airport (just a ten-minute drive from where Amelia’s plane touched down 80 years earlier).

As fashion studios go, it might sound a little unorthodox, but that matches Jayne’s own journey to this point. Born in Swansea but raised in Texas, Jayne started a punk band while at university - a band that was signed to EMI Records and toured the US with Hole and No Doubt amongst others. After hanging up her microphone, she threw herself into fashion, working under the tutelage of Alexander McQueen and Vivienne Westwood in London. 

Now, operating out of her one-of-a-kind Pembrey studio, Jayne designs bespoke pieces for chart-toppers like Charli XCX, Katy Perry, Sia, Pussycat Dolls, Dua Lipa and Beyoncé  and produces bold, envelope-pushing collections, typically with a focus on sustainable materials, that never fail to turn heads at the globe’s premier fashion shows. She tells us more about her life, her process, and her love of her homeland.

“Once clients come into the studio and we start our fittings, we'll talk about the stories that inspire me. When they see the surrounding landscapes, they start to get it. They can feel the mythology in the wind and sense the history of the place. They always end up wanting to learn more about Wales and see more of what magical things Wales has to offer.”

“The inspiration from the Welsh landscape and Welsh history inevitably appears in my work. One of my recent collections - the Ceridwen Collection - was based around the medieval Welsh stories that make up the ancient Mabinogion anthology. They’re set in a mythical version of Wales, with magic, shapeshifters and giants, and all these lovely characters and narratives that I really enjoy exploring.”

“I work with a lot of musicians, and I create everything bespoke. So we start with discussions and then ideas bloom. Sometimes it's the idea of the clothing as a costume in relation to a character or a concept. Many artists don't go on stage being themselves - there is often a sense of performance or theatre, and it's essentially creating their muse of whoever they want to personify for that specific album. Like Brat with Charlie XCX, or singers in bands such as Rachel Goswell from Slowdive, that I’ve been working and collaborating with for many years.”

“I think carefully about where I source my fabrics from. We work with a company called Beglarian Fabrics based in France, who specialise in end-of-roll fabrics. We use and repurpose that fabric. My brand is also a bespoke, made-to-order label, so nothing is manufactured in great quantities. Everything I make is a one-off, commissioned garment. That ensures fit, longevity and sustainability, plus everything is designed and made in West Wales. It's extremely important to me to be as sustainable as I can.

“We’ve also worked with the United Nations affiliated company Solaris Community and premier fabric creator Ruffo Coli, based in Italy, to develop a type of silk taffeta, that was actually made from ocean plastic waste! It was so beautiful, we used it throughout the Ceridwen Collection. I also worked with Stratasys, the leading fashion 3D printing company, to create 3D printed motif embellishments (also made from ocean-plastic waste) for this fabric. That had never been done before, by anyone - it was a world-first. My management firm in the USA, nuForj, project-managed the process with me.”

“It's so important to support emerging designers in Wales. There aren’t many options for them to train or get industry experience here. Over the past decade I've been giving internships to graduates from fashion, textiles, print, photography, and fine art degrees. I show them how a small studio works, how we function as a business, how we work with clients, how to build up a portfolio, as well as scaling and marketing your business.”

“I was born in Swansea in West Wales, “the land of my fathers”. My mum went to art school in Llanelli and we lived there when I was a youngster before we moved to the States. My grandfather was a coal miner then trained as a gunner in Pembrey Airport during WW2. Six generations of my family are from Pontyberem. There's so much history in my family specific to Carmarthenshire, and it's wonderful to be based here.

“I have traveled all over the world and lived in different places including the States, but Wales is so special. You really feel that hiraeth when you cross the bridge. The stories, the language, the history, the beautiful landscapes - all of that have really made me who I am.”

“When I have clients and friends flying in from around the world, the first place that I take them is to Kidwelly Castle. They’re always amazed at how atmospheric and intact it is even after standing for hundreds and hundreds of years. You can even go down into the dungeon, it's fantastic and you can just feel all the stories of the people who lived there.

“I’d probably pair this with a trip to Tenby. I love Tenby, it's so picturesque, and you can take the boat out there to Caldey island to see the beautiful birds and the sea life. It's absolutely stunning. Plus, fish and chips by the sea, you can't beat it, can you?

“Then we have to make a stop-off in Carmarthen, because of the history of Merlin, and Merlin's story. The town’s Welsh name is Caerfyrddin (‘Merlin’s Fort’) and Merlin’s magical staff is said to have been carved from an old oak tree that you can still see in the town’s museum. I like to tell them all that story, because it's so beautiful, and you can just feel the energy and the kind of mythical-ness around the place. 

“Whatever we do, they always go away having loved their visit to Wales, and they always take something with them, like a lovely Welsh woolen blanket. I think it’s lovely that they're taking a bit of Wales home with them.”